Waterfalls of Marmolejo in April, foto: M.W.
View from the Valle la Engorda

Marmolejo, photo: M.W.
View from the plateau of Valle del Mesoncito showing the long approach.

In February 2002 the ice waterfalls of the Cerro Marmolejo have been visited by climbers, who left one of the very hardest routes on ice. The waterfalls are formed nearly all year round. High altitudes will require a good acclimatization. See map Detail of Baņos Morales and Embalse el Yeso

Ben Firth y Eamonn Walsh first visited the giant waterfalls. They left a route called "The Nook". Here is the original description: 1st-2nd pitch W4, 3rd Scrambling, 4th-5th W6+, looks similar to French Maid in Canada http://www.climbing.com/Pages/gallery_pages/206/gallery-206.01.html, The hard bit of the route is around, 4500-5000m, we did it in Febuary so things were a bit warm up there.

Photo: E.Waldhoer
Detail view, ice falls in the SW-face

The Nook 6+, 2: Senda Real 7+, 3: Tripple Direct 5-, the hardest ice climbs in Chile.

In January 2006, the Austrians Harald Berger and Albert Leichtfried put up two new routes in the S-face: "Senda Real" WI7+ (6 pitches) with an ice-roof (6m overhanging) and "Tripple Direct" WI5- (2 pitches).

Photo: H. Berger, A. Leichtfried
Senda Real WI7+

Photo: H.Berger, A.Leichtfried
Roof of Senda Real, 7+